BEYOND BEAUTY : Q&A WITH BELLA THE DJ

 "Bella the DJ" [photo credit: Julie Hinson Paisley]

Behind bold beats and a perfect pucker, the imploring eyes of Isabella DeLéon exude a quiet, natural depth, which balances her striking beauty and solid stage presence. A.K.A "Bella the DJ," this 17-year-old modern-day DJ, model, actress and student attacks life with a sensible passion. Bypassing perceived ills of the fashion industry, Bella has walked multiple runways (most recently New York and Vancouver Fashion weeks), was featured as one of Gambit New Orlean's 40 under 40 (2015), serves as muse and in-house model for Project Runway Junior contestant Tieler James and recently graced the cover of Vie Magazine, after being named South Walton Fashion week's female Model of the Year. Keep reading for a snapshot into the life of a talented up-and-coming teenage superstar...

CREATIVE CONTENTION : Q&A WITH CHRISTOPHER SAUVE

Christopher Lee Sauve [photo source]

Of the creative minds fusing street art with street style, pop culture and social activism, Christopher Lee Sauvé has risen to infamy on the coattails of cartoons and celebrities. Starting off at Adbusters Magazine, a move to NYC  and a t-shirt citing "Save Anna" (at the the time of big bank bailouts and uncertainty over the editorship of American Vogue) grounded his success with fashion favorites and spawned projects with Madonna, Marc Jacobs, Diane Von Furstenburg, Alexander Wang, among others. Known for his subversively-insulting-but-sincere style statements, Sauvé's creative palette embraces iconography as modus operandi, best placed to represent "the commercialization of celebrity" where "we no longer see celebs as people, but as the sum of parts packaged and sold to us" as noted by NOW. Sauvé expands, "For example, you can take Marilyn Monroe and simplify her abstractly into lips, a mole, a curl of hair and an eyelash, or Bowie and his zigzag" [source]. Keep reading for our conversation with the art director / illustrator / designer on artistic interpretation, color and contention...

INSPIRED ILLUSTRATIONS: Q&A WITH HOLLY NICHOLS

Illustrator Holly Nichols sketching next to her collection of Copic markers in her Boston-area studio [photo by Lisa Richov, courtesy of Holly Nichols]

Copic colors capture both casual and couture with precise perfection at the hand of fashion illustrator Holly Nichols. Vivid blues and pastel hues accent long legs and haute hair with elongated elegance. A 2013 graduate of Endicott College, Holly's Fine Arts background combined with the strength of social media become a springboard for a career sketching for clients like Saks Fifth Avenue, Barney's New York, TRESemmé, Neiman Marcus, Disney and others. Initial postings on instagram draw enough interest from fans to inspire a life-changing decision to leave education and pursue illustration. Keep reading for our exchange on technology, piracy and success...

FUR-TRIMMED FASHION: DAVID FERREIRA

Sempiternal S/S 2016 by David Ferreira [photo: courtesy David Ferreira]

Fur and feathers emerge as the closing act of the VFiles Spring/Summer 2016 Runway. Oozing yellow and opulence, the debut collection of Portugese designer David Ferreira charismatically coalesces Big-Bird + ballgowns. One of five winners of Vfiles Made Fashion week in September 2015, Ferreira is also a recipient of the prestigious Fashion Scout Merit Award and served as protégé to Iris van Herpen, Giles Deacon and Meadham Kirchhoff. With practicality under debate, Ferreira's unnervingly unique collections provide an esoteric evaluation of beauty, luxury and extravagance. Volume and delicacy--both from a macro and micro perspective--are used to execute strong and simple design through the use of luxury (fur, feathers), tulle, beads and trims. Keep reading for our quick dialogue on imagination and inspirations...

Q&A WITH YASIA KHOMENKO OF RCR KHOMENKO

Designer Yasia Khomenko posing with items from #theteeshirtproject [photo provided by Yasia Khomenko]

Though peace and stability continue to waiver in Ukraine, fashion is shifting from an industry catering to the well-to-do, to an accessible art form of understated luxury, sophistication and individual style. A relative newcomer to the fashion arena, big brands Gucci, Burberry, Chanel and others see potential in an untapped market and set up shop in the 2000s. Fast fashion soon follows with Mango, Zara and Topshop. Kiev Fashion Days (sponsored by Mercedes Benz) emerges in 2010 as the byproduct of a maturing creative culture. Along with socio-political shifts, new players appear; young designers like Yasia Khomenko and Anna October begin forming the foundation of Ukraine's formidable fashion empire with international distribution and notoriety. Keep reading for a Q&A with Yasia Khomenko of RCR Khomenko, one of Kiev's newly established fashion talent... 

THOUGHTS & TECHNIQUE: Q&A WITH THILO WESTERMANN

"Selfie," photo Courtesy of Thilo Westermann

Millions of meticulously-placed pixels--in pinpoint precision--invigorate the floral forms created by artist Thilo Westermann. For Spring/Summer 2015, Westermann's art is transformed into a collaboration of limited-run wearables for Escada. In an opportunity borne by chance, Escada Fashion Director, Daniel Wingate, happens on Westermann's So What Does Forever Mean? exhibit in Nuremberg, Germany and instantly envisions a partnership with the artist. Where art is applied to fashion, fashion once again becomes artistically transformed in the Escada Meets Thilo Westermann collection. On glass, Westermann's art exemplifies a hyper-realistic rendering of nature, yet on fabric, a woman becomes a part of the magnified beauty on display. Keep reading for my Q&A with the artist and have a look back at the Thilo Westermann window feature...

CRAZY, COLORFUL, COOL : Q&A WITH CAMILLE HARDWICK

Camille Hardwick up close [photo by Ezzidin Alwan, provided by Camille Hardwick]

The United Kingdom credits the craft of fashion with an army of accomplished alumni. From Alexander McQueen to Zac Posen and many more in between, the British art school scene is the birthplace for designers who clothe the fashionably elite. Among this year's graduates, Camille Hardwick attracts attention by pairing color and transparency in knitwear. After presenting at Graduate Fashion Week, Hardwick is chosen to show at the Best of Graduate Fashion Week Awards Show 2014. One of 3 winners in Urban Outfitter's 2014 ARTS THREAD X UO "Make It" design competition, I become acquainted with Hardwick after picking up the limited-run dress produced from her concept. Most recently, Hardwick is a UKHKA 2014 finalist and will be exhibited at Alexandra Palace and Harrogate. Her 2014 collection is currently exhibited in the "visionary" section at the Fashion and Textiles Museum's Knitwear: Chanel to Westwood exhibit. Keep reading for my Q&A with the designer... 

WHEN MINIMALISM AND MAXIMALISM MEET: A Q&A WITH KIRSTY WARD

Kirsty Ward wearing a self-created necklace [photo by Hayley Benoit, provided by Kirsty Ward]

Prize-winning couturier, former Alberta Ferretti designer and '07 graduate of Central Saint Martins, Kirsty Ward brings brilliance to the brink of bourgeois fashion. During London Fashion Week, tassels and polka-dots land atop layers of multi-tier draping as Ward presents her 9th collection. Launching her own brand in 2010 after 3 years of working for Alberta Ferretti, Ward becomes an overnight sensation, called out as a Rising Star (2011) by Elle.co.uk, a Designer to Watch (2011) by vogue.com and a chosen exhibitor for Selfridges' Bright Young Things (2011). Ward's UK-made ready-to-wear is synonymously paired with her handmade jewelry, formalizing the relationship between simplicity and embellishment. An emphasis on form drives the uniqueness of her brand as season-after-season, she continues to surprise; a signature interplay between hardware and soft wear  often results as a multitude of ring-splayed pieces in metallic enlightenment meld with textured translucence. Keep reading for my Q&A with designer Kirsty Ward...

Q&A WITH COSTELLO TAGLIAPIETRA

Jeffrey Costello and Robert Tagliapietra

Apart from their signature "Look" and fresh spin on women's fashion, design duo Costello Tagliapetera share more than a tendency towards plaid and a love of their bulldog Sam. For the two CFDA veterans and award-winning designers, inspiration came by way of their respective grandmothers (both of whom worked for couturier Norman Norell) and grandfathers (from whom came the model of 'dressed up' khakis and plaid). In 1994, a night out at the Sound Factory led to a decade long partnership. Starting with creating custom pieces for clients like Bruce Springsteen, NIN and Madonna, the pair eventually made a pivotal move towards ready-to-wear. In 2003, the Brooklyn based designers created a 12-piece capsule collection for Vogue, which landed an editorial feature in March 2004. Costello Tagliapietra presented their first runway show 6 months later (Sept. 2004) and officially launched the CT label in 2005 with looks made from weightless, wrinkleproof Italian knit jersey. Since then, the success of the brand is evidenced by multiple awards and capsule collaborations, most recently with lifestyle brand Uniqlo. Keep reading for an informative Q&A on success, shared style and special spots... 

LESSONS FROM LUCKY MAGAZINE'S FASHION DIRECTOR ANNE KEANE

 Lucky Magazine Fashion Director Anne Keane; photo credit: Phil Oh

"Fashionable" is the complimentary bi-product of creative chaos + arbitrary assessment. While designers continually chase the prospect of creating yet another 'inspired' collection, publication management (editors and fashion/creative/art directors the likes of Anna Wintour and Grace Coddington) sets the tone for seasonal trends. Journalists (think blogger Susie Bubble and columnist Suzy Menkes) define and opine on the sartorial medley of the moment. The general public plays both judge and jury in the face of endless options and informed style supremacy (a.k.a social media); and so, perception and placement become prominent drivers of what is "fashionable." For Lucky's Fashion Director, Anne Keane, seasons, styles, trends and tastes have served as the baseline of her day-to-day, since the magazine's inception in 2000. The LA-raised, West Village transplant shares a bit about her views on fashion, her time at Lucky Magazine and her dietary delights in our Q&A...

MEET THE MILLINER : JESS COLLETT

Jess Collett Milliner in her atelier, photos provided by Jess Collett

Handmade hats, haute hairpieces and high-performance horses become functional--not to mention fashionable--highlights of the derby/summer sporting season both domestically and abroad. With the Epsom Races passed and the Ascot Races upcoming, Jess Collett, a familiar favorite in the world of high-profile headgear, staves off the sun with a range of subtle to show-stopping styles. A graduate of Kensington and Chelsea College, Collett's couture creations are wielded by British royalty, actors and actresses and the general public. Established in 1999, Collett's atelier in Notting Hill continues to be the birthplace of all her handmade floral, felted and feverishly fantastic hats. Keep reading for a sincere and insightful Q&A with the designer...

MEET REBECCA MINKOFF, MAKER OF THE M.A.B

Rebecca Minkoff, photo by Danielle Kosann courtesy of Rebecca Minkoff

With an edgy rock-chic style and a healthy appetite for layered hardware, Rebecca Minkoff's disarming smile resonates the personal nature of her business and the success that is built from connecting with customers. A San Diego native, Minkoff moved to NYC after graduating from an arts-focused high school and the Rebecca Minkoff brand took root in 2001. Three years later, Minkoff had depleted her savings and looked to her brother, Uri for a loan to continue. Minkoff's big break came by the way of an "I Love New York" tee (included in her first capsule collection) that became an instant sensation when Jen Elfmann wore it on Jay Leno. Soon after, the Morning After Bag (M.A.B) was born and--many iterations later--remains one of the most popular handbag styles in the US. 2009 marked the debut of Minkoff's first ready-to-wear collection and 2010 was the year Minkoff became a member of the CFDA. The $60 million revenue in 2012 ($35.7 million the prior year), 185K followers on Twitter to date and steadily increasing number of storefronts bear no hint to the humble beginnings of the Rebecca Minkoff brand. Keep reading for a brief Q&A with the designer.

TWO BRITISH BELLES TELL OF BEAUTY, BENEVOLENCE & BEING BEULAH

Lady Lavinia Brennan and Lady Natasha Rufus Isaacs, photo provided by Natasha Rufus Isaacs

The sleek, silky dresses and free flowing femininity of Beulah London exudes innocence, romance and elegance; a far cry from the haunting tales of human trafficking that compelled two British belles to build a humanitarian fashion label. In 2009, Lavania Brennan and Natasha Rufus Isaacs spent time in India working at Atulya, an aftercare home for enslaved and abused women. On return to London, the sights and stories of abuse, human trafficking and organ smuggling prompted Lavinia and Natasha to fuse their flair for fashion and desire to empower wounded women in India. Beulah London was founded on the premise of a 'butterfly effect' where "a small change at one place in a complex system has a large effect elsewhere," ultimately supporting "the journey of each woman out of darkness and despair, into a new life of hope and restoration" [source]. Keep reading for a Q&A with "Lavs" and "Nats" on style, food and their journey to building a benevolent brand...

ASKED & ANSWERED : Q&A WITH DESIGNER ANN YEE

 Designer Ann Yee (middle in metallic skirt + black shoes) and models showcasing the full lineup of SS '14 styles

Beyond the short-lived showings of seasonal style and the casual indulgence of an impulse buy, there exists a longstanding challenge for any namesake designer to juggle creativity, production, marketing and business. A fine balance between making a brand and being the brand fuels the 'vision' and subsequent 'story' that paves a pathway to success. Michigan Native Ann Yee (of Ann Yee Collection) puts a palatable edge on knitwear and captures the spirit of entrepreneurial excellence through her distinct collections. Her brand, described as "visually provocative" and whose "refined nonchalance plays on androgyny and proportion and structural cuts juxtaposed against soft draping," converts clothes into a wearable means of sculpture [source: thinkpr]. Keep reading for my Q&A with the designer...

A DIALOG WITH DIANE PERNET of ASVOF

Diane Pernet, Portrait by Alessandro Simonetti (provided by Diane Pernet)

Poised in portraiture as enigmatic as the Mona Lisa, Diane Pernet is as much human as she is icon. Under the dark shades, high headpiece and distinct black ensemble, Pernet is one of the most inexplicitly approachable, shrewdly opinionated and creative-minded women I've encountered in the fashion world. The "Paris based, American-born French international fashion blogger and critic" (per wikipedia) graduated with a documentary filmmaking degree from Temple University and, after 13 years designing her own line in NYC, immigrated to Paris in 1990. Pernet has spent the last 2 decades building her blog, A Shaded View of Fashion (ASVoF), and establishing fashion film as an art form. Keep reading for the Q&A...

INTERVIEWING THE INTERVIEWER : A CANDID CONVERSATION WITH KINVARA BALFOUR

Kinvara Balfour, photograph by Alex Bramall (2013) provided by Kinvara Balfour

Unexpectedly pleasant and inexorably well-dressed, Kinvara Balfour is a leading style advisor to some, a playwright to others and a wellspring of sincere smiles to just about everyone she encounters. A veteran style editor at Condé Nast (among other publications), former couturier at Tomasz Starzewski and founder of DailyCandy.com UK, Balfour's span has touched every corner of the fashion industry. Adding to an already impressive resume, Balfour is currently following in the footsteps of her late uncle, David Frost, directing and hosting the 'Fashion in Conversation' series for Apple. Top fashion icons in both London and New York (Mary Katrantzou, Anna Wintour, etc.) become the subjects of lighthearted scrutiny as Balfour disarms them with her cheerful charisma. I catch up with Kinvara after a Fashion in Conversation session with Zac Posen. Keep reading for the Q&A…    

LOVELY IN LACE : MARIANA JUNGMANN

Model Victoria Clore in Mariana Jungmann ensemble / Hair & Makeup: Virginia Bertolani / Photographer: Claudiu Berechet

While trends experience transitory prominence and commercialized style enjoys the security of covering day-to-day pursuits, nothing compares to the craft and creative complexity of couture clothing. After all, J.Crew and H&M simply aren't exhibited at the MET. During London Fashion Week, my curiosity gravitates towards the fresh talent emerging from fashion's top institutions. Of this year's London College of Fashion (LCF) graduates, Mariana Jungmann catches my eye--and the attention of the style community--with her lace-inspired womenswear. One of 10 MA students selected to present 10 looks at the LCF 2014 fashion show, Jungmann's stylish silhouettes command the catwalk against a digital projection of shattered shards. Keep reading for my Q&A with the designer herself...