Sempiternal S/S 2016 by David Ferreira [photo: courtesy David Ferreira]
Fur and feathers emerge as the closing act of the VFiles Spring/Summer 2016 Runway. Oozing yellow and opulence, the debut collection of Portugese designer David Ferreira charismatically coalesces Big-Bird + ballgowns. One of five winners of Vfiles Made Fashion week in September 2015, Ferreira is also a recipient of the prestigious Fashion Scout Merit Award and served as protégé to Iris van Herpen, Giles Deacon and Meadham Kirchhoff. With practicality under debate, Ferreira's unnervingly unique collections provide an esoteric evaluation of beauty, luxury and extravagance. Volume and delicacy--both from a macro and micro perspective--are used to execute strong and simple design through the use of luxury (fur, feathers), tulle, beads and trims. Keep reading for our quick dialogue on imagination and inspirations...
Modern Day Big Bird [all photos courtesy of David Ferreira]
Art is willfully subjective, while reality is astutely definitive. Do your designs tend more towards 'art' or functional fashion (or do you balance between both)? How does your design process incorporate both creativity and sale-ability? Do you find yourself leaning towards dollars over design (or the other way around)?
I totally agree with you about Art being willfully subjective and Reality astutely definitive. This is exactly why my designs often tend towards 'art. They are my art. They represent my knowledge and feelings over a specific thing, whether it is an aesthetic movement or a movie. However, I do know that fashion is a business that needs money to keep going, but I truly suck as a businessman and I deeply hate it. I never think about dollars over design. I love fashion and being a designer is my true passion. If I start putting money over creativity, I will start hating what makes my life so happy, right now.
VFiles Runway September 2015
Inspiration is everywhere--a thought, a scene, a smell, a memory or movement. What pieces of your character, beliefs and personal memories, and remnants of lessons learned do you see evident in your design? How will you look to develop themes for your seasonal collections / collaborations?
I cannot remember the moment I began to want to be a fashion designer. I only remember wanting to be in fashion and creating beautiful dresses. Each collection is different. I do not have one specific process to create; this is why I am so passionate about this job. It is freedom. It gives me the opportunity to fly just like a little bird. I usually have a thing in my mind that unconsciously keeps coming into my mind and gives me interest and I cannot pass without researching about it.
collage
In visiting a handful of European countries over the last few years, the divide between social classes--and what each respectively considers "affordable fashion" --is quite evident. Who are you designing for? Describe the David Ferreira woman--where is she going and what is she doing?
She is a leader. A natural diva. Someone who truly enjoys dressing up and understanding the true value of a piece of clothing. A woman who cares about herself. She is an extremely intelligent woman.
"Opulent Child" A/W 2016; "the wardrobe of an imaginary clique....that primes for glamour, beauty, extravagance and luxury"
The last few years have met with political unrest. Do you see the impact of politics / poverty on Europe's fashion scene (e.g. trends, materials, designs, colors, etc.)?
Yes, indeed. Especially in European fashion, I have noticed that everything has come to simpler terms, if it makes sense. The glamourous and extravagant fashion shows and creatures have given place to simple runway shows and becoming Haute Couture privilege. It seems that Pret-a-Porter designers are afraid of being looked at just because our politicians make wrong decisions for their people. Fashion is solitary, with everything around us, but it also amuses people, makes them dream. And when we stop being able to dream, we stop believing in happiness.
Puffy in pink
You have won the chance at creating a collaboration of the year for Barney's New York. Who/ What brand would you choose to partner with? What would you design (evening wear? Sportswear? shoes? fragrances?)
Well, I guess I would go with either Daphne Guiness or Mystic from X-men and both would be evening wear.
Backstage before the show, February 2016
As a young designer, there are so many variables to consider in design (e.g. cost, ethical sourcing, technology, etc.). What is the most challenging part?
Cost, definitely. As I try to not limit myself--but there's always a limit. Unfortunately.
Cost, definitely. As I try to not limit myself--but there's always a limit. Unfortunately.
Lobster tail!
3 favorites and 3 words that describe you...
Favorites: Fur, silk, volume
Descriptors: Unique, Free, Over-the-Top
David Ferreira designs used in editorial photography [photos by Not Just a Label]
Portrait: David Ferreira
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