Tuesday, April 10, 2018


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Eva by Geova Rodrigues at Sapar Contemporary's exhibit Ideas get Dressed 

Starting out in solitary suspension, inspired ideas materialize into thought-turned-tangible triumphs of design. Whether napkin drawings, formal sketches or direct-on-mannequin draping, fashion designers engage in a ritualistic conjuring of creativity with each new collection. From initial vision to conceptual clarity, the precursor to perfection is a uniquely individualized prepatory process. In an intimate exploration of the drafting of daydreams, Emma Kathleen Hepburn Ferrer (granddaughter of Audrey Hepburn) embarks on her first solo curatorial endeavor, Ideas Get Dressed: Works by Zac Posen, Manolo Blahnik, Raquel Davidowicz, Roland Nivelais, Sara Zielinski and Geova Rodrigues at SAPAR Contemporary in Tribeca. Keep reading for a look inside...

 Handmade maquettes by Geova Rodrigues; first time the dolls have been shown outside Rodrigues' studio

Through an assortment of 2D sketches and 3D artistry, Ideas Get Dressed "calls for a new understanding and appreciation of 'design'--the 'intention that exists or is thought to exist' behind clothing and fashion [SAPAR]." Opening the exhibit is a series of 8 maquettes by Geova Rodrigues. Entitled "Refugees," the handmade dolls serve as his 'mannequins' on which Rodrigues directly sews remnants of his collections to complete elaborate costume combinations. A painter-turned-fashion-designer, the artist cites his process as a skill learned from his mother--No sketching required!

The 8 dolls are part of a collection entitled "Refugees" and produced with remnants of Rodrigues' latest collection

Across from Rodrigues' miniature mannequins hang ink renderings of elegant evening wear by Roland Nivelais. Adopting a more traditional practice, Nivelas' drawings outline clean composition and simplicity, despite the intricate and ornate construction of his garments. Having studied at the French Couture School in Paris, Nivelais credits his mom's elevated sense of style as the foundation of his inspired vision.  

Woman in Blue (2010) by Roland Nivelais

On a singular stretch of white wall, three of Manolo Blahnik's unique drawings present a daintiness evident in the shoes he designs. Viewers are introduced to a different side of the shoe designer as well as the artistry behind the shoes. The drawings honor Curator Hepburn Ferrer's grandmother, paying homage to the late actress through the ornate text framing his sketches.

[L] Woman in black // [R] Woman in grey by Roland Nivelais

At the center of the gallery is a pièce de la résistance, a draped mannequin by Zac Posen, showcasing the structured detail he employs in designing. Also on display are renderings of a blue gown designed for Katie Holmes. Posen recounts his thoughts on the process, saying "I enjoy coming to my office on the weekends, where I can fully concentrate on draping. This process allows me to explore new shapes and silhouettes on the female form. The partial drape and detailed sketches, that are included in this exhibition, are the preliminary vision of one of the main gowns from my Fall/Winter 2018 collection."

Manolo Blahnik's The Eternal Hepburn Look

Raquel Davidowicz and Sarah Zielinski's line drawings each embody a unique perspective. Davidowicz's featureless figures carry their clothing with casual chic composure while Zielinski's ladies exude confidence and a playful defiance. All in all, a conceptually simple, yet impressionable exhibit of select designers and the intimacy of their visual compilation as they refine a personal art in the industry they represent. Part of the sales from the exhibit will benefit USA for UNHR (The United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees). Ideas Getting Dressed will be on view at SAPAR Contemporary, 9 North Moore Street until April 18th.

Manolo Blahnik series of 3 works (ink on paper)

Works by Raquel Davidowicz and pièce de résistance draping by Zac Posen, created for this exhibit

[L] Raquel Davidowicz's  Illustration and fabric study for UMA Winter Collection 2015 // [R] for UMA Summer Collection 2016

Zac Posen's Illustration for Katie Holmes dress 2 (2018)

COMFORTSarah Zielinkski's freehand drawing installation and dress design

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